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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.